Soak up Peruvian History, of Course, but Save Time for a Swim with Sea Lions

Imagine swimming in the chilly Pacific Ocean near an island off Peru that’s a wildlife haven. The stars of this oceanic wilderness, set amid rollicking waves and buffeted by strong winds, are sea lions, whose vocalizations validate the “lion” part of the name.

Machu Picchu, the Andean wonder about 300 miles southeast of Lima, may be Peru’s biggest attraction, but I also found the Lima, the capital, an excellent adventure destination. The Pacific coastline, which stretches nearly 2,000 miles, beckons those who want to try mountaineering, surfing, paragliding and more.

I wanted to try the “more.” And that’s how I wound up in the Palomino Islands, about six miles off Lima, where I would encounter something so extraordinary it changed the way I think of travel.

First, a look at Lima and environs

This coastal metropolis is an eclectic blend of Spanish colonial heritage and modern, bustling city, which gives it a distinctive vibe. I took a couple of days to explore, starting with Lima’s historic center, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Plaza de Armas, the main avenue, reveals a huge concentration of colonial buildings and historic architecture. (Be sure to notice the wooden balconies, many of which have been reconstructed.) The huge growth of Lima, which expanded by 2 million people in the four decades after 1940, has resulted in a city that is a patchwork of neighborhoods.

The next morning, I explored Miraflores in Lima’s coastal district. Its Pacific Ocean views were brochure-worthy, and it also oozed a modern, cosmopolitan energy, thanks to its high rises, bustling malls and lively cafes. In the evening, I darted to the nearby Bohemian Barranco district, known as “SoHo of Lima,” thanks to street murals, funky curio stores and lively arts and a music scene that kept me captivated late into the night.

This was but the start of the adventure I had come for.

From Callao Harbor to the islands

I took a taxi to Callao, the port city of Lima about 10 miles from my Miraflores hotel, and gave the area a quick look, including seeing Fortaleza del Real Felipe, also a UNESCO site, that was constructed to defend the port city from pirates. An earthquake destroyed the first fortress in 1746; the current fortress was completed in 1774 and was key to protecting Spain’s important port in its growing New World Empire.

Having soaked up Callao’s past, I was ready to turn my attention away from works of man and toward works of nature. A sharp voice (our guide) signaled it was time for our adventure to begin.

The sky was clear and the ocean a deep blue as our group of nine set off from Callao for an oceanic rendezvous. The speedboat headed toward Isla San Lorenzo, at 5 miles long and 1.2 miles wide, the largest of the islands in the Peruvian sea . The guide regaled us with stories about the pirates who inhabited this island in the 17th and 18th centuries.

The wind picked up, and the waves grew rougher. As we approached the island, our skipper switched off the engine about 20 feet from San Lorenzo Island. Despite the waves lashing against the island’s rock faces and winds ruffling our hair, peace seemed to have embraced us in this oceanic wilderness.

The skipper re-engaged the engine, and the boat lurched onward to Isla el Frontón, just a couple of miles away. In 19th century, pirates frequented the island’s rocky ramparts, which provided cover but not complete protection from Callao’s cannons.

As our boat traveled the length of the island, I caught a glimpse of Humboldt penguins. The Humboldt Current, running from Antarctica up the western coast of South America, brings water that is cool enough for these penguins, creating an ideal nesting place for them.

We watched the penguins from a distance, hundreds of them squawking, some jumping into the water, others jumping out of the water and onto the rocks.

They generally top out at 28 inches and weigh 9 to 11 pounds, mere trifles compared with, say, Antarctica’s Emperor penguins, which are more than 4 feet tall and weigh as much as 100 pounds.

The comparatively lithe Humboldts frolicked nonchalantly in the sun or skinny dipped. I was transfixed.

Next we headed to Cavinzas Island, its rocky faces appeared distinctly white in the bright sunlight. As we drew closer to the island, the stench of guano hit me, courtesy of pelicans and other seabirds.

Guano is prized as fertilizer, and Peru’s thriving industry around guano harvesting dates to pre-Columbian times. Guano is still harvested on this island and in 2009, Peru established the National Guano Islands, Islets and Capes Reserve, a marine protected area covering more  than 500 square miles, including the islands of Cavinzas and Palomino.

Swimming with the sea lions

Finally, we approached Palomino Island and saw the prize: hundreds of sea lions, some lazing, sunbathing or playing on the rocks, others swimming and diving. The area echoed with their continual loud, rhythmic barking. Our boat stopped around 30 yards from the island.

It was our time to play in this oceanic wilderness.

I donned the wetsuit and a life jacket and jumped in the ocean, cold, despite the bright sun. The current was strong but buoyed by my life jacket, I paddled around. I was exhilarated. Our guide and a few more people from the group soon joined me.

As we swam toward Palomino Island, we were soon surrounded by playful groups of sea lions, squealing and roaring, grazing our faces and legs. They seemed delighted to have human company. I was amazed to be so close to wild, wonderful creatures, completely immersed in their natural habitat.

Thirty minutes later, I was swimming back to the boat so we could head back to Callao.  I wriggled out of the wetsuit into my clothes, clicked a few panoramic pictures and tried to process what I had just seen, heard and smelled.

I didn’t think it was possible to be both enthralled and enervated at the same time, but I was. This, I realized, is why we travel: to escape the ordinary and to make the acquaintance of the exceptional experiences.

Till we meet again.